Learn to straight razor shave—enjoyable, economical, ecological, and the closest shave you can get outside the barbershop. In the article, we'll teach you everything you need to know about picking out your first straight razor.
Once you choose a razor, you must learn how to use it properly. Proper technique involves holding the razor at the correct angle and using short, controlled strokes to shave. It's also essential to use a high-quality shaving soap or cream to lubricate the skin and protect against irritation.
Don't worry—we tell you everything you need to know about straight razors in this article. With practice and patience, you'll master the art of straight razor shaving and enjoy a close, comfortable shave every day.
Not all straight razors are suitable for beginners. So, to make it easier for you, this beginner's guide will start with the basics and go into further detail on everything you need to know about straight razors, including the best rated straight razor for a beginner and how to use a straight razor.
Table of Contents: Straight Razor Guide
- What Is A Straight Razor?
- Benefits Of Using The Right Straight Razor
- Top 7 Reasons To Shave With A Straight Razor
- The Basics To Buying Your First Straight Razor
- Straight Razor Anatomy: Important Terms And Concepts
- Stainless Steel Straight Razor Blade Vs. Carbon Steel Straight Razor 101
- Tips For Using A Carbon Straight Razor Blade
- Tips For Picking A Straight Razor Handle
- Straight Razor Blade Point
- Should I Buy A Straight Razor Kit?
- How To Maintain & Care For Your Straight Razor
- Common Straight Edge Razor Questions
- Everything You Need To Get Started With Straight Razor
Return to first principles—straight razors.
The main reason to use an old-school straight razor is that it gives you the closest shave possible. Maybe it's the ritual we love about wet shaving—in our fast-paced lives, we barely slow down enough to look into the mirror. The old ways of wet shaving help us return to ourselves and allow us to slow down.
If straight razors are so great, why did people stop using them?
Straight-edged razors made from steel were a great innovation when they came about in Sheffield, England, in 1680 (read the complete history of straight razors). Before 1680, many natural sharp instruments were used for shaving: seashells, shark's teeth, copper pieces, and stone. You can imagine the delight of men who first shaved with a blade made from razor-sharp steel.
The safety razor was developed in the late 1800s as an alternative, providing more protection against clumsy strokes but a slightly less close shave. In the mid-20th century, disposable blades began to take hold, eliminating blade care and the ritual entirely. However, in return, we sacrificed accuracy and smoothness.
The razor industry later became dominated by heavily marketed cartridges because they were easy to use. Men were led to believe that more blades meant a better shave, but they were mistaken.
What Is a Straight Razor?
A straight shaving razor is a single blade sharpened on one edge set in a handle that is folded open or closed via a blade guard. Straight Razors can be made of different materials, including stainless steel, carbon steel, and artisanal Damascus steel. The single blade (which looks like a knife on a stick) is attached to the handle and is called the scale.
Small pivot pins on the scale (handle) hold the blade and grip together. They allow the sharp blade to fold inside the handle—like a pocket knife is folded. Each blade is unique and handmade. Every straight razor is unique and has many parts.
Benefits of Using the Right Straight Razor
The benefits of using a straight razor are a closer shave and a great shaving experience. Once you fall in love with straight razors, they can feel like they’re making love to your face nearly every time you use them.
You’ll soon realize that no other shaving tool provides a cleaner and smoother shave than the straight razor. Many straight razor enthusiasts move between a straight razor and a safety razor as part of their daily grooming routine. Highly recommended.
TOP 7 REASONS TO SHAVE WITH A STRAIGHT RAZOR
- A closer shave, bar none
- Less irritation & razor burn
- More control and better shaving experience
- Laser-sharp shaping
- The money you will save
- It's better for the environment
- A straight razor feels. Awesome!
Needless to say, the obsession is easy to understand. Besides, they’re beautiful instruments, and it’s tempting to want them all.
Some have qualities that make them the best straight razor candidates for beginners, which is where you want to start, especially if you’re new to all this wet shaving stuff. But if you find yourself swooning over a more advanced blade, you can always make it a goal to work towards.
The Basics to Buying Your First Straight Razor
The most common recommendation for buying your first straight razor is not to buy a cheap one. We agree. You get what you pay for. We would not recommend purchasing any straight razor for under $100. We guarantee you will get a butter knife on a stick. Don't waste your money and avoid most no-name razors on Amazon.com.
A traditional straight razor for a newcomer has to fill several tasks. It needs to be forgiving so you don’t get cut, provide a smooth shave, stay razor-sharp to keep your chin as bare as the day you were born, and make you look as suave as 007 agent.
After trying thousands of razors, we believe the best are made in Germany and France. The only other brand that we like that has been making some quality razors at the lower end of the market is Naked Armor. Most of their razors are priced between $100 and $200 and have exceptional guarantees. However, if you are ready to spend more money, we like the Thiers Issard brand for excellent straight razors.
How do you make the right decision?
It’s a serious tool, with a sharp blade. What you need is the key to understanding the straight razor language. There are many different kinds of blades in our shop, so we’re here to help you find the starter blades and understand how to work your way up to the slightly more advanced straight razor blades we have for experienced shavers.
Below is everything you need to know to buy your first straight razor and the key to understanding the rest. We’ll go through the types of razors available. Maybe you want a Shavette to start? If you don't even know what that is, keep reading, and we'll walk you through the matrix of wet shaving.
Straight Razor Anatomy: Important Terms and Concepts
Many people know straight razors, but they are often called straight edge, cut-throat razor, barber, open-blade razor, straight blade, and straight-edge razor. Even though a straight razor blade is essentially the blade and the handle, the best straight razors for newcomers have some features that make them better and easier to use.
What are straight razor jimps?
Jimping is indentation along the lower portion of the smooth side of the blade (called the tang), where you rest your fingers while shaving and holding a straight razor. They provide traction, which makes it easier for the blade to stay steady in your hand. Not all straight-edge razors shave jimps. Once you master the skill of straight razor shaving, they may no longer be needed. However, plenty of lifelong wet shavers prefer razors with jimps for style and function.
What is a straight razor shoulder?
The shoulder of the blade is a depression on the face that marks where the sharp end turns into the tail. The shoulder is more cosmetic, but it can be helpful for you to get a feel of where the smooth parts stop and the sharp parts begin when you’re just starting.
How wide should the straight razor be?
Straight-edge razor blades are measured according to their width. Novice shavers take note. There’s a slight difference in performance between a wide and narrow blade. Narrower blades deliver a more aggressive cut. Wider blades are more straightforward to shave with and more forgiving.
Whatever blade you get, you'll need to sharpen it (strop it) regularly. Sharpening is done by carefully gliding up and down the strop (leather band). Many newcomers get this step wrong and end up ruining the sharp edge. Check out our articles and videos for more information.
Straight razor shaving takes practice. Eventually, you'll master the technique and be able to expand your straight razor collection to include more advanced edges and styles.
Blades are measured in increments of ⅛ inches from the toe of the blade (sharp bottom edge of the razor head) to the spine. So a 4/8 blade is half an inch wide and a 6/8 blade is ¾ of an inch wide. A good width straight razor for beginners is 5/8 and above. We recommend starting with a 7/8—the broadest blade of most straight razor brands.
Straight Razor Blade Grind
The straight razor blade grind refers to the blade's flexibility and sharpness. Slight variations in the blade shape significantly impact the shave it provides.
Look for a “hollow” grind straight razor. Hollow grind doesn’t mean there’s space inside the blade, it refers to the amount of metal taken off the blade—leaving a longer, more supple, and thus a more forgiving blade. Most great straight razors today come in either a full hollow or half hollow.
Most common straight razor blade grinds:
- Full hollow grind: A long, thin, sharp yet forgiving blade
- Extra hollow grind: A more fine edge than a full hollow, it’s sharper and may be too flexible for newcomers
- Singing hollow grind: Ultra-thin blade made for pros
- Half hollow grind: Thicker, a slightly wedged design (only offered by a few straight razor manufacturers)
- Flat or straight grind: Commonly called a “wedge” type ground straight razor attributed to rigidity and torsion-resistance. You often find this grind on narrow straight razors to allow precise shaving.
Start with a fine edge full hollow grind. Eventually, you’ll find that grind is a personal choice. Things like the coarseness of your hair and your preferred shaving technique can have an effect. You might try an even thinner blade like an extra hollow or singing hollow once you get the hand of wet shaving with a straight edge razor. Part of the appeal of this hobby is trying different blades and getting to know the feel and look of a particular grind.
Stainless Steel Straight Razor Blade vs. Carbon Steel Straight Razor 101
Stainless steel straight razors are great for wet shavers who use a strop and honing stones. The carbon straight razor is more straightforward to sharpen and has a more forgiving blade than the stainless steel alternative.
If you’re coming from cartridges and safety razors, you might’ve heard that stainless steel is the way to go. Stainless steel doesn’t oxidize in moist environments, so it stays sharper longer and is easier to maintain than carbon steel.
However, different thinking is involved when picking a good straight-edge razor. Safety razors push across your face rather than pull and need a finer, less coarse blade. Stainless steel works but can be a little harsher, making it more challenging to strop and sharpen.
The benefit of carbon steel is that it is very easy to strop and keep a sharp edge, which makes it an excellent metal for straight razors and a great choice for beginners. Carbon steel is the original material, and many of the most essential names in shaving, like Boker, started in the 19th century. It is the primary metal they use to make them today.
The significant difference between these two is that chrome is added to the alloy to create stainless steel. Chrome makes the atomic structure of the stainless steel coarser.
Unfortunately, carbon steel doesn't have protection to prevent oxidation or rust like stainless steel, so if you’re not good at oiling your tools there are a few things you should know.
Tips for Using a Carbon Straight Razor Blade:
- Completely dry your razor after use
- Store the razor in a cool, dry place
- To protect the blade from moisture, apply a light coat of camellia oil or Naked Armor's hemp balm (petroleum jelly is a good substitute).
Straight Razor Pro Tip
High-blade-quality metals sharpen better. Whether made from carbon or stainless steel, blades made from good metal should produce a clear ringing sound if you very carefully place the point of the blade under your thumbnail and give it a gentle nip. Japanese and German steel are the ones to look out for.
What is the Best Straight Razor Handle?
The best straight razor handle is the one that gives you a perfect balance between blade and scale—so wet shavers like the straight razor handle heavy, and others like ornate designs. The handle is where you get to be creative and express yourself.
The scale, (handle or blade holder), is just the fun part. They can be stunning pieces of art—some are even collectors' items and come with beautiful and intricate designs. But there's more to the blade holder story: weight and balance. This part may be nestled deep into this article, but this may be one of the most essential shaving facts you learn today.
The center of balance for a straight razor is at the pivot pin, where the blade and the handle meet. This pin is also the main connection point to the handle. The pivot pin balances the razor so that it is easier to hold, enabling you to get your neck as easily as possible with your mustache.
It's a personal choice—some guys like a heavier blade, others like the feel of a light handle. Either way, start in the middle to master the feeling first. This is one of the reasons we like the Solomon from Naked Armor. It hits all the beginner recommendations at an affordable price. We also like the lower-end German Dovo blades for beginners, which are a bit more expensive.
Tips for Picking a Straight Razor Handle:
Heavier Handles:
A metal or stainless steel body tends to be heavier. The weight of the blade itself does most of the work of applying pressure. With less force needed from you, they can be a good option for those with sensitive skin.
Lighter Handles:
Wood or resin tends to be lighter and gives you more pressure control. This can come in handy in areas where detail is needed. Feel free to start with either type of blade holder. Some woods and other lighter materials can sometimes cost less, which makes them a good place to start. Plus, they teach you how to use a blade properly. But no hard-and-fast rule says where you should start.
Straight Razor Blade Point
Many straight razors have different kinds of blade points. The point, found at the top of the blade, on the side of the spine, is used to remove hair from hard-to-reach parts like your ears and nose and to define the shape of the beard.
When you buy your first straight razor, look for a rounded point "round point" blade; skip anything with a square point. A rounded shaving head is still sharp and gives a close shave, but it is much safer to steer than their square point blade cousins and others like the French point, Spanish point, or Barber’s Notch. You may find a rounded shaving head slightly less exacting, but they’re a lot safer, especially when starting.
5 Best Straight Razors for Beginners
By now, you've either gotten a Ph.D. in straight razor anatomy or followed the recommendations. Each of the razors below is ideal for tenderfoot shavers. Our recommendations come from the world's best and most respected manufacturers. All straight razors are made from carbon steel and come with rounded points, jimps, shoulders, and full hollow blades—all reasonably priced and tested by our staff. If you are overwhelmed by all the technical aspects of a straight edge razor, starting with a basic entry-level straight razor included in a men's straight razor kit is highly recommended.
Should I Buy A Straight Razor Kit?
If you are new to straight razor shaving, a complete straight razor kit is the perfect way to start. It's cost effective and will save you the hassle of piecing together all the right elements to begin wet shaving. We like the quality straight razor kits from Naked Armor because they have everything you need to launch into a straight razor without breaking the bank. The Solomon kit below is a great starter kit, and the Theirs Issard kit is our favorite starter kit if money is no object. Let's dive into our top straight razor recommendations:
1) Naked Armor Solomon Straight Razor 7/8' Brown
Learning the art of shaving is easy with this award-winning vintage-style straight razor. The Solomon Straight Razor is an extra-durable must-have shaving tool. Designed to withstand corrosive elements and heavy-duty shaving, it has a 59-61 HRC VG-10HZ Japanese steel blade perfectly complemented by its biblical brown algum wood handle and 115-grain two-sided gold copper heads.
2. Dovo Tortoise Patterned Handle Round Point 5/8" Straight Razor
Like the Diamant, the blade on this handsome Dovo straight razor answers all the needs of a rookie, more so than other razors, but offers a suave, resin, tortoiseshell case, and special gold-etched blade. A high-quality straight razor as any.
3. Thiers Issard Hexagon Brown Stamina Round Point Straight Razor 5/8" Le Thiernois
‘Singing’ Hollowed or extra-hollowed, Thiers Issard's straight razor represents France's finest grind and thinnest blades. This nickname comes from the blade's sound when a softer material is dragged gently across the cutting edge - like making your water glass sing!
4. Naked Armor Solomon Straight Razor Kit Custom Point 5/8" Japanese Steel Straight Razor (Best Men's Straight Razor Kit for Beginners)
Naked Armor is an award-winning American-made straight razor kit. The Solomon straight razor has something for just about anyone and everything you need for the beginner: a badger-friendly shaving brush, a strop, sharpening paste, organic shave soap, and, let us not forget, the star of the show: the Solomon straight-edge razor.
Crafted from precision Japanese steel with hybrid points between a Dutch (round point) and French point, it is one of the best men's razors. The hybrid design offers a unique compromise unlike other. The Dutch point design guards against accidents and the French point style offers precision, all presented in a dazzling natural pine wood gift box. Add the Solomon straight razor kit to your next Amazon order!
Blade Width: 7/8"
Blade Point: Round Point
Blade Material: Japanese steel VG-10HZ
Blade Grind: Full Hollow
Barbarette vs Shavette Here’s the Truth
In the shaving industry, a straight razor with a disposable or a replaceable blade can be called a shavette straight razor or a barbarette, depending on the brand. Professional barbers typically use them to bring up hairlines or shape beards. Think of them as a hybrid between safety and straight razors. No one wants to use a dull razor! When the blade becomes boring, you can switch it out. There’s no shortage of websites recommending these as the best straight razor for novices, but are they?
The advantages are that you don’t have to hone or razor strop with a leather strop to sharpen your blade or put much care into it. When the blade stops working, pin the blade holder, pop out the straight razor, and add a new one. Plus, they are less expensive than traditional razors, and replacement blades aren’t even expensive.
While that’s all sound reasoning for it to make sense for beginners, it doesn’t add up, and here is why.
Why Shavettes Straight Razors Aren’t the Best for Beginners:
Shavettes are sharp, tug on your hair, and are more prone to cut your face. Allow us to take a position. Replaceable blades are great for professional barbers concerned with hygiene, but they don't do you any favors at home.
- They have a higher learning curve than regular straight blades
- You can feel more of a tug on your stubble with a disposable blade
- They are much less forgiving when it comes to nips and cuts
None of these are things you want out of your first blade. Even though it may seem like a good idea to start with a hybrid instrument like a dovo shavette razor, just because a shavette looks like a traditional razor doesn’t mean it will shave like one. Not to mention, they break a lot easier with all those parts.
Why You Should Start With a Traditional Straight Razor Blade:
A traditional fixed blade razor is easier to handle and makes more sense for starters. The trick is to find the right one.
How To Maintain & Care for Your Straight Razor
Maintain and care for your straight razor by keeping it dry and sharp. Let's dive into how to keep your straight razor clean.
How to Keep a Clean Straight Razor
- Clean the blade with warm water and shaving soap
- Keep the blade dry. Blot it dry with a clean cloth or let it air dry
- Disinfect it with rubbing alcohol
- Coat the blade with baby oil, mineral oil, or camellia oil
- Store away from moisture (a drawer in the bathroom is fine)
- Clean the handle with a damp cloth or dry toothbrush
Good blade hygiene can go a long way. Not only does it keep bacteria at bay, but it leads to less deterioration of the cutting edge over time. That means a sharper blade.
FAQ: Straight Razor
If you still have questions on your search for cut throat razors for beginners, we hope you can find the answer here.
Q: How do you use a straight razor? Can you give me a quick guide?
A: Using a straight razor for shaving is a skill that combines art and precision. Here are step-by-step instructions to help you get a close and safe shave:
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Preparation: Start with a clean and moist face. Taking a hot shower or applying a warm towel on your face beforehand can help soften your beard and open up pores.
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Lathering Up: Use a quality shaving cream or soap and apply it with a shaving brush to create a thick lather. This moisturizes the skin and provides a protective layer that reduces irritation.
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Holding the Razor: Grip the straight razor with your dominant hand. Place your first three fingers on the back of the blade, your pinky on the razor's tang, and your thumb on the side of the blade near the middle. This grip offers control and stability.
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Angle and Stroke: Hold the blade at about a 30-degree angle to your face. Begin with your cheeks, as they are the easiest to shave. Use gentle strokes with the grain of your beard. Do not apply too much pressure; let the razor's weight do the work.
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Shaving the Face: Start from the top of your cheek near your ear and work down your jawline. Be extra cautious and use shorter, more precise strokes for the area under your nose and upper lip.
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Shaving the Neck: Tilt your head back slightly to stretch the skin on your neck. Shave from the top of the neck downwards, following the direction of hair growth. This area requires careful attention to avoid cuts.
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Rinsing and Post-shave Care: After shaving, rinse your face with cold water to close the pores. Apply a soothing aftershave balm to moisturize the skin and reduce any irritation.
Q: How do I keep a straight razor sharp?
A: Antique straight razors can still be used today, but they are not the cheapest way to shave. The good news is that if you keep your razor blade clean, the cutting edge will stay sharper longer. Remember, we're not dealing with disposable blades that you can throw away when the blade's edge gets dull.
A cutthroat razor can be kept sharp in two ways:
- Stropping - Running the blade's edge up and down a strop (typically a piece of leather) before you shave helps keep it sharp.
- Honing—You should hone the blade's edge every one or two months, which involves sharpening the blade against a stone.
Don't be intimidated by the sharpening process. It's fun and can make your instrument last for decades.
Q: What does “shave ready” mean?
A: 'Shave ready' is a confusing term often debated online. Shave ready means the blade will be honed and ready to use out of the package. Remember, there are different quality razors on the market. Most straight razor aficionados recommend buying a high-quality straight razor from brands like Boker, Dovo, Thiers Issard, and Naked Armor. These blades come 'shave ready' and can be shaved right out of the box after a few passes on a strop.
If you buy something less premium, it will likely take a lot of work on a set of stones and a strop to get it "shave ready". You can also check the manufacturer's warranty. All the brands we work with guarantee the shave readiness of the straight razor.
Q: What kind of shaving cream or soap do you use with a Straight Razor?
A: You want to create a smooth shaving surface for the closest shave. Shaving soaps are the best way to do that with a high-quality and clean shaving brush, such as a badger hair brush. If vegan-friendly is your personal preference, opt for a synthetic shaving brush. Use strong, moisturizing soaps that lather well or a high-quality shaving cream.
Don’t use the same shaving cream as you did with your cartridge razor. A straight razor works a little differently. It’s one blade and it pushes instead of pulls. You need more powerful creams that moisturize and soften the hair. Don't forget to map your face after applying the lather. This will help you keep track of your shaving direction.
Q: Is there a difference between modern and vintage straight razor?
A: Yes! Modern straight razors feature the latest technology. Years of experience, often from companies that have been in the game for centuries, have improved the quality.
Vintage Razors: A well-maintained vintage straight blade can be the same quality (if not better) as modern alternatives simply because a skilled artisan made them. But, a vintage straight razor requires some tender care to restore it to its original glory with professional blade restoration and may not be the best idea for starting.
Q: Should I Do Multiple Passes with Straight Razor or Just one?
A: Ah, the age-old question of how often you should pass the blade. If you're a beginner with a new straight razor, you might only want to start making a singular downward stroke (shave downward). Shave downward across half of your cheek, going with the grain of your hair or the direction your beard grows. This way, you can feel the blade and its power. After getting enough experience, you can go against and across the grain, using a crisscross method.
Q: How Do I Prep My Face For Straight Razor Shaving?
A: Start with a hot towel. Getting your chin ready to start shaving and receive the razor is an important step! Luckily, it's easy. You only have to take a hot shower or wash your face with warm water and soap. But if you love the ritual, then take a few moments and lay a hot wet towel over your face to create a smooth shaving surface.
Heat and water after a hot shower soften facial hair and make cutting easier. They also open blocked pores, shedding dead cells and dirt on the skin.
Q: Everything You Need to Get Started with Straight Razor
A: We know moving to straight razor shaving can be daunting. There's a lot to learn, and mistakes can be messy. But if you start with a good understanding of the parts of a razor, the rest will come easy, and you will have a smooth, gorgeous face in no time.
Summary
Use a straight razor to get the closest shave possible. Make your daily shave an enjoyable moment and take the time to sculpt your face with a well-crafted tool.
If you would like to learn more about the history of the Art of Shaving, we recommend that you grab our eBook. You will learn about styles like the whole hollow ground and many more designs. To get to the end of this article, we are offering you the eBook for free. Use code Free-eBook at checkout.
Updated: March 2025
